I fixed My Cooling problems last week!!
 

I just installed a BE COOL- Aluminium Radiator, Aluminium shroud & electric fan, and aluminium expansion tank. It was all custom built from BE COOL's fabricator in Canada. Price wasn't cheap!! $1704.00 in american money!! My car came with a 1978 Dodge Omni 4-cylinder radiator in it!! I used to stage the car at 140 degrees, cross the traps at 150 - 160 degrees, turn on to return road at 190 - 200 degrees. I would pull over on the return road and shut the car off , leaving electric fan and electric water pump running to cool the car down so I could drive back to the pits. If I would drive to the ticket booth before shutting the car off , it would reach temps of 210 - 240 degrees!! TO HOT!! With the NEW BE COOL stuff , I can now stage the car at 140 degrees , cross the traps at 140 - 145 degrees, hit the return road at 160 degrees, and drive all the way back to my pits, and be at 180 - 185 degrees.With out shutting the car off!! Then in 4 - 5 minutes,after shutting car off and leaving electric fan and water pump running, my car will be cooled of to below 140 degrees. That is as low as my water temp gauge goes. It was expensive!! But it solved my problem of to small of radiator and getting hot. I had to get a custom built radiator because of the size that I could fit between the Alston Chassis frame rails, and how low the body is on the frame. Here is a picture of radiator set-up before, with Omni radiator. I will post a picture of New Radiator set-up as soon as I can. http://www.photohost.org/gallery/dat..._100_00461.JPGOn saturday when I won the Gamblers Race, the last couple of rounds where round robin, with 28 to 20 minutes between rounds according to my time slips, and the car would cool down to below 140 degrees by the time I put gas in the car and checked air pressure in the slicks!! I am running #8 an fittings and hose for radiator hoses!!

It took BE-Cool's fabricator around 6-7 weeks to build my system and send it to me. That was after talking to Bill Kydd ( fabricator) , for about 2 weeks , and sending pictures, measurements and diargams back and forth. So that we would be sure the radiator would fit between the frame rails, and would clear everything else!!

Paul, for that kind of money I'd expect him to come to my house and install it, then mow my lawn, take out the garbage, and clean out the garage! :lol: Seriously, good to see you got your problem solved and good to hear you had a good weekend of racing. I know GOOD, and I know BAD, unfortunately, I'm more familiar with the latter. I still have cooling problems.

Are you using an electric water pump/what kind? And is the electric puller fan all you use for airflow? What is the CFM rating?
http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/...7846376032.jpg

I am glad I finally got mine straightened out!! It also cost another $200 in additional "an" fittings and hose. I have a Shogun setup mounted on the motor, and a Dedenber Electric water pump. Only 1 electric fan , puller. I don't know for sure the cfm of the fan . I will call the fabricator later. I will try to post a picture of the new set up tomorrow.

I just got off the phone with the fabricator. The fan pulls 2070 cfm, electric draw is 18 to 20 amps. It has a very distinct sound!

Here is a picture of the Shogun Water pipes that connect to the motor. http://www.photohost.org/gallery/dat...n_111_1175.JPG

Picture of NEW: BE-COOL Aluminium Radiator, Aluminium Shroud and Fan, and Aluminium Expansion Tank. http://www.photohost.org/gallery/dat...n_111_1174.JPG

Another picturehttp://www.photohost.org/gallery/dat...n_111_1172.JPG

Picture of Dedenber electric water pump.http://www.photohost.org/gallery/dat...n_111_1177.JPG

Is that insulation on the hoses on the front of the motor?

Yes , it is insulation on the fuel lines ,from in front of the rear, all the way to the carb.

Those lines going to the radiator are large enough to move enough coolant to keep the motor cool? They look kinda small... no?

The radiator hose are #8AN, They are small , but they do flow enough coolant to keep it cool. It cools down ,after a run very quickly. It takes 4 to 5 minutes after I shut the car off ,to go from 185-190 degrees down to below 140 degrees, with the electric fan and electric water pump running. I was looking at some dragsters at the track this last weekend, and afew of them also run #8 AN fittings and hoses.

I just picked up (on eBay) a Howe aluminum radiator. 26 x 19 x 3.

The best part was the price - $49!

W00T!

8) :D

Paul, it's a genuine thing of beauty.

Say, is there a provision for a thermostat on that set-up? Is that Shogun system used 'cause the radiator sits lower in the tube frame chassis?

I decided to scrap my current set-up and sprung for a Maziere elec pump with plans to build an aluminum radiator shroud. That should fix my woes.

Dan, There is no provision for a thermostat. The Shogun system was on the car when I bought it. I called up Shogun Company back in March. He said that most people run their cooling system water flow to fast, so they use smaller diamiters of tube and hoses to slow the water down for better heat transfer, The radiator fabricator also agreed to this. Slow the water flow down. A buddy of mine is suppose to be going to Island Dragway this weekend, his name is Bill Dixon , he runs a 1968 Dart 440, with a BeCool aluminium radiator and Maziere pump. If you look for him , you could take a look at his set up. It is a brown Dart, with DODGE FEVER on the side of the car. He runs in HEAVY class!!

that is just like taking the thermastat completely out , if it is out ya can have big problems!!! :oops: