Proportioning valve question
 

First the setup
72 Demon
73 and up front disks.
Wilwood rear disks.
Late model master. with the plastic top and screw on covers.
Summit Adjustable proportioning valve in rear brake line.
NO Stock Proportioning Valve.
Car on jack stands and engine in 1st,give it some go pedal while holding the brake pedal, it overrides the rear brakes so the wheels turn.
The summit adj valve is set at 1 1/4 turns out from being seated.
Brake pedal does feel a little spongey. But I bled all the lines not to long ago.
Where should I set this valve Aprox?
Don't want to run the car to much and annoy the neighbors

Norm what kind of adjustment are you looking for.
I ask because you mentioned you applied the brakes
and the rear wheels still moved. Are you looking for a line
lock effect or normal braking?
If your looking for normal braking I don't think you can do it
with the wheels off the ground unless you measure pressure
front and rear and balance it out.
I think you have to do it on the ground to get proper resistance while
the car is moving. Then make your adjustment for propper
balance between front and rear.

I have a line lock in the front line. Just looking for a close adjustment, so I don't lock those little skinny tires on the front up.
I'm wondering if one off the kids was playing turn the knob and see what this does.
I should just open it up all the way. I doubt , with tthe tire combo that the rears would lock up. The little skinneys on the other hand are likely to.
I don't need any suprises at the end of the quater.
I figure while my son is here tomorrow, I'll have him help me bleed the brakes again just to be safe. I really don't like the way the pedal feels. But that's the way it's been and it was stopping fine.
I might think about buying a master from Wilwood and see if the pedal feels better. But that will be down the road a bit. I don't actually think there's any air in the line. I think it's just the 4 wheel disks that make it feel that way. Or it could be the proportioning valve is restricting to much and the pressure is building up on the master side. Hmmmmm

This may confuse the situation, I just did the whole brake system on my car (Wilwwod 4 wheel disc) & I was told not to use the proportioning valve, however I did plumb one in since I replace the lines anyway. The way it was explained to me from Wilwwod was the backs should do more stopping, the only time you would need the proportioning valve would be driving it on the street. The backs need more stopping power with larger tires or slicks & there are no sudden stopping like on the street. You need to apply the brakes slowly.

So my valve is left wide open. In your case it may be worth a call to Wilwwod tech, they are very knowlagable & helpful.

That's what I was thinking. Because of the tire ratio, it should have more rear force than front.
Which adj proportioning valve are you using?
Thanks for the input B3

I have Wilwood disc all the way around, there master cylinder, & there prop valve.

If all goes well I will take the car to the track on Sunday to give it a try.

I've read quite a bit about how to adjust a proportioning valve for brake bias and there are 2 very important points. 1) Do not combine an adjustable proportioning valve with an OEM valve. Very dangerous situations can occur. 2) Make sure the front brakes lock up first during hard braking to prevent the rear of the car from coming around on ya. Ever see a Nascar driver using too much rear brake coming into his pit box? I've seen crew members hospitalized as a result of a rear skid. Have someone observe your car during hard braking to make sure the fronts lock up first. Hope this helps.

Hey B3 I'm going up on Saturday. For a little T&T

Swap meet this weekend, no?

No
That was last weekend

I am planning on going out to Island as long as the weather is good, I have not checked it yet. E-town has the Spring Swap meet. I just want to test the car & go easy & make sure all of my changes work & brake the car in a bit. I have a few minor thing to work out first.