onehellofadart

Well I went Sunday and here is what happened. 1st run 17psi in rear tires she hooked. Same 60' as before but the sucker would'nt shift when I told it to. Shifted to 2nd at 6200 but the tranny didn't shift untill 6500 and bumped off the limiter, I'm pissed. Shifted to 3rd missed and hit neutral bumped off the limiter again. Ran a 13.80 100mph.
Second pass 1.5 hours later, raised launch from 2000rpm to 2500rpm. Spun tires. Shifted to second again at 6200rpm tranny waited till 6500rpm to shift bumped off the limiter again. When it decided to shift to 2nd it smoked the tires and fish tailed. Little scarry but I shook it off. My best time with the car so far is a 13.445. I ran a 13.550 @ 102mph while spinning. I'm definatley putting in a Hurst pistol Quarter stick this winter.
Trying to decide whether to put in a cope reverse valve body or just go for one of Copes racing transmissions. Talked to the wife Valve body about $250 or trans for about $1100 better clutched, has reverse valve body and better parts in general. She says go for the trans. What do you guys think?
_________________
Tony

onehellofadart

I have a stock rebuilt 1970 727 with about 1500 miles on it. I have a stock column shifter with no reverse lockout that I shift manualy. I messeged cope on another board
to ask the benifits of his tranny up to 500hp vs a stock 727 with his reverse valve body. I'm waiting for a reply.

sickt7cuda

I have a Turbo Action reverse manual valve body which I bought for $150 from Jeg's, I think. It took less than an hour to install it. It gives nice firm shifts. The nice thing about the 727 trans is that you don't have to mess with ball bearings for the valving, as you do with Chevys.

Tony, are you using a stock convertor?

onehellofadart

No I'm using a 10" TCI 3200 stall.

Mopower71

I agree with Mikel, If the wife is going to let you get it, go for it.
A new tranny is on my wanted list also. The one in it just got pulled from my old tow van, new fluid and(should I say it) has my ger vale body and converter in it. I don't know how long it will last. My wife said she would pull some o/t so I can get one in the near future. Gotta realy appreciate somebody that stands behind you like that.
Sounds like the new shifter would be a good idea also, before it get thrown into reverse on a run.

onehellofadart

Norm,
accidentely throwing it into reverse is on my mind at the tree always.

Dan,
did you beef up the trans, or is it stock with the diff valve body?

Mopower71

[quote="onehellofadart"]Norm,
accidentely throwing it into reverse is on my mind at the tree always.[quote]
See, That will be one less thing you have to think about at the tree.
There's so much going thru my mind when I get there, I need to find a good routine and practice it. I almost always forget to turn the main power switch off for the line lock.Which wouldn't be a bad thing except it has a seperate, lower rev limiter chip in it for the burnout.

onehellofadart

Norm I here ya.
I think I'm gonna find a good trans shop after the holidays
and beef up the clutches and bands and have them install
a Cope rev valve body. Might as well have them throw in the
Quarter stick while its there. Hopefully before next season I can
get wheels and slicks.
As much as I need the slicks to get a better launch, I feel I'm
loosing alot by the damm thing going pass the power band. Aside
from it not shifting when told its shifting to soft.

Mopower71

What size tires do you need?
Or how much can you fit under it, in slick size?

onehellofadart

I could prob go 27". But I'm gonna go 26 x 9.5 sec x 8" wide.
The 9.5 section is the widest I can go without spring relocation.

Mopower71

You mean something like this?

Tire, ET Drag Slicks, 26in.x 8.50in.x 15in., Bias-Ply, L8 Compound, Blackwall, Each

Mickey Thompson ET Drag Slicks are designed, engineered, and built for outstanding performance, run after run. They feature a two-ply wrinkle wall carcass with state-of-the-art compounds for a bigger contact patch. The special rubber compound requires less heat than other brands of drag slicks, resulting in better traction and faster times. Plus, you'll have fewer burnouts and a longer tire life. And because they use more air pressure than other slicks, they're safer at higher speeds.

Vendor Mickey Thompson
Product Line Mickey Thompson ET Drag Slicks
Rim Diameter (in) 15
Tire Size 26.00x8.50-15
Sidewall Style Black wall
Tire Construction Bias-ply
Speed Rating (Not Specified)
Load Range (Not Specified)
Minimum Recommended Rim Width (in) 7.1
Maximum Recommended Rim Width (in) 9.1
Tread Width (in) 8.1
Tire Diameter (in) 25.9
Section Width (in) 9.9
Recommended Rim Width 7.1-9.1 in.
Tire Size 1 26.00
Tire Size 2 8.50
Belt Construction (Not Specified)
Tire Compound L8
Roll Out (in) 82
UTQG Tread Wear Rating (Not Specified)
Traction Rating (Not Specified)
Temperature Rating (Not Specified)
Tread Depth (Not Specified)
Tread Ply Quantity (Not Specified)
Sidewall Ply Quantity (Not Specified)
DOT Approved No
Max Load Single (lbs) (Not Specified)
Quantity Sold individually.
Notes (Not Specified)

onehellofadart

Those are the ones I have been looking at and prob will buy.
I don't want to go any taller I would have to run a taller gear
this is 85 % street car.
You got a set hanging around doing nothing ? :P

Mopower71

I might just have hat you are looking for.
They are a few years old but only have at most 10 passes on them.
Those are the ones I used to tear the studs clean off the axle on my 71' Dart.
I don't know how they would work on my Demon, and the Dart will be sitting for a while waiting for a quater panel, body work and an engine to be rebuilt for it.
We'll see what we can do. Right now they are mounted on a set of ralley wheels.

onehellofadart

What size are the rims? 5 on 4.5 15 x 8 .
They are those tires?
Wouldn't it have been easier to remove the tires
and take the studs out?
Where they stock studs or heavier?

Mopower71

Let me run out and double check the size, just to make sure.
The ralley wheels are 5 on 4.5 15x? I want to keep the ralley wheels. They actually belong on my Road Runner.
Yep would have been easier loosening the lug nut and jacking the car up to take them off. But , hey, I was in a hurry at the line, and wanted to see how fast I could get the wheel off.
It was real funny when I saw my Yellow brake drum passing me.

Mopower71

I'm running out side right now to check so don't go away

Mopower71

They are
26/8.5 15
M/T ET Drags
Is that what you are looking for?

onehellofadart

They have to be 9.5 section. I can barley get my finger in between
the quarter panel and the tire now. I believe they are the smallest M/T make anyway, corect?

onehellofadart

[quote="Mopower71"]ouch!

Mopower71

They came off my 71' Dart Swinger with 440/auto 8 3/4 with 4:10 posi.
I found out that under 18 psi they were cupping/ only the outside edges were touching. At 21/22 psi they launced with the most contact, taking out the right side quater panel. The studs were repacement 3" long but only 7/16". I had other issues that actually came in to play when they tore off.
The whole rear came out of a friends Duster(kick me hard for letting them take that to the junk yard), and I did a quick brake check and didn't pay attention to the 1/4" aluminium spacer between the brake drum and the axle. With 11" drums you need replacement axles that are 1/4" longer. Don't run spacers.

Mopower71

They came off my 71 Dart so they should fit right under your car with no problem.

Mopower71

Here's one from the Summit site
Tire, ET Drag Slicks, 24.50in.x 8in.x 15in., Bias-Ply, L8 Compound, Blackwall
I really don't think you want to go that small.
The shorter the tire the less contact area there is also, not just the width.
I ran a 12.62 @ 102 on those tires. The speed seems way off , but the old 440 was laying down on the top end. 14 years of abuse has taken it's toll. That's why it's sitting on the floor waiting for a rebuild

onehellofadart

Are you considering selling them? I'm screwing my drag radials onto my rims. Gonna see how that works. Supposed to go to E-Town Sunday, but I think its been changed to Island. $25. vs $100. and E-Towns last day of point will be crowded.

Mopower71

yes, seriously considering selling them, that's why I brought them up.
Are you sure your tires now are slipping on the rims?
$25 for test and tune sure beats $100.
Which track is closer to you?

Mopower71

Hmmm
Let's think about this. If you want to make a road trip and try the slicks out sunday, maybe we can work something out.

onehellofadart

Too late for that. But thanks for the offer. I'll see how these things do on Sunday And make a decision after that. Meanwhile think of a price w/o the rims. E-Town is closer by 40 miles round trip.