I finally got a few minutes to work onthe car.
I've got the tranny pulled back and the converter off. Now I need to get a flex plate.
I need the one that is drilled for 7/16" bolts.
I was hoping I wouldn't have to pull it off, but now I do. I guess I could always drill it out for the larger bolts.

 

Norm, what happened to your convertor/flexplate? I must of missed something.

 

Switching from a _ _ _ 3500, to a 4500 custom ATI unit.
Should get the engine Reves up in a hurry.

 

Been tossing around the idea of putting the 4:88's in it also.

 

I guess I'm not the only one that knows how to spend money.
BTW, I like your Avitar.

 

This car should go better than mid 13's

>1972 Dodge Demon 340 Race Car
>Original orange 340 car with no rust, has replacement quarters installed.
>340 13 to 1 compression
>roller rockers
>530 lift solid cam
>202 heads
>850 holley double pumper
>torker II intake
>line locks
>weld wheels with slicks big bolt pattern
>4 speed slush box
>front and rear disc brakes
>12 point roll cage
>8 3/4 488 posi rear stock length
>fuel cell
>painless wiring
>msd ignition

The best the previous owner ran was a 12.90

 

I just changed the avatar. I was getting bored with the old one

 

I agree, it should be faster. What are the details of the suspension?
Rear tire size? And what size jets and squirters? Headers? Plug gap?

 

Suspension I haven't really gotten to yet. I did fix the floor and the pinion snubber so it doesn't flip over and brake the u-joint again.
Stock (I think) springs, 8 3/4 with a 4:10 spooll.
Rear tires are 325X50 15 BFG Drag radials
Jets were Primary 83 jets with a 5.5 pv
Seconday 84 jets with a 3.5 pv , I have changed them to 78's and it had 3.5 and a 5.5 power valves in it. they are both 5.5 now.
Squirters not sure on size. But I did fix the accel pump arm from jamming on the fuel line, and also the cable so it opens the throttle all the way.
I also tweaked the distributor so it now has only the light spring in it. With both springs it was figthing the idle speed. so it would idle fine then it would be idleing high.

 

I saw that you have a MSD ignition, 6AL? Which distributor are you running. If it's a Mopar, you should think about replacing it with an MSD. The Mopar Performance units are garbage. They're never phased properly, which causes scatter and weak spark. Best to go with MSD Blaster coil also.

Of course, the maladjusted throttle cable could have been the sole culprit. I'm assuming that you haven't run a 1/4mi since you fixed that.

What kind of 60' times does the car run? Has anyone observed the cars reaction to launch....does it rotate, squat, wheel hop, spin the tires? I'd be curious to see video of the launch.

I'm no pro, and I hope I don't come off as a guy who has all the answers. Just trying to give you some food for thought.

 

The Throttle cable was fixed before I ran it last, but the rest of the stuff I did last fall and have not had it out since.
Distributor is a Mopar race unit with the mech. tach drive. With a blaster 2 coil.
The 60' was an embarrasing 1.92. I'm not sure if I got any video of that one.

 

60ft. 1.943
330ft. 5.526
1/8 8.515
mph 81.67
1000ft 11.132
1/4 13.371
mph 100.14
Leaving the line at 2000 rpm

 

Looks like you're gonna have to wait and see what shakes out once you get it on the track. If you change too many things at once, it's very difficult to pinpoint a problem. Maybe we can meet up at a T&T day.

 

I've changed to many things to pinpoint anything, that's for sure.
But it's all stuff that wasn't right to begin with. The more I fix the better it should be.
It had a problem that I finally found. With both my 440 and the 340 it would only rev to about 4500 rpm then it was like the rev limiter would kick in. I found the problem while I was rewiring EVERYTHING. The ground wire for the MSD box fell off when I touched it.
So , as I fix all the stuff that's not up to par I can't really hurt to much performance.

 

Found another time slip.

60ft. 1.869
330ft. 5.482
1/8 8.507
mph 80.85
1000ft 11.170
1/4 13.524
mph 93.40

Hmm looks a little backwards if you look at the 60' and 1/8
I wonder if the accelerator linkage was binding and keeping the plates from opening fully?

 

Hi there! I was just reading through the posts on this thread and thought I would add my 2 cents worth. While you are correct about a lot of things that you are fixing needed to be fixed, and will certainly help, I think we need to focus on your carb. I used to run a big block dart that ran mid 10's with less jetting then you had. You are on the right track by downsizing the primaries, but I would run 80's in the secondaries (remove power valve and install plug). We really need to know what # the shooters are because I fear they are also probably too large, somewhat comparable to the thinking of the large jets. Remember you don't need all that fuel coming out of the primaries, just enough to stop a bog, your throttle response will be much crisper & cleaner. We don't know what your vacuum is at, but I'm willing to guess you could even go to a 6.5 power valve in front and down to a #76 jet, with the right shooter and some fine tuning, THAT THING SHOULD FLY!!!!! I too don't profess to know all as every combination is different, but I have rebuilt tons of Holleys with good sucess. I hope some of this info helps out.
Jim

 

Thanks For the input, and welcome.
I have the rebuild kit and the new float w/extensions. So next step is to tear the carb down. I'll get the #'s of the squiters while I've got it apart.
But first is to finish buttoning up the tranny, and replacing the thermostat housing.

 

Do you have any details on the cam you're running? When you get this car sorted out, it should be an 11 sec. bullet! You must be going insane with this weather! A perfect weekend tempwise- shot!

 

How much wet crap can one indure. The wind is now blowing like mad.
As for the cam, all I know is that it is a .530 lift solid cam. The guy I bought the car from never got back to me with the cam card.
One of these days I guess I'll have to pull it out and do some measurements, Or put in a bigger one and just do a valve to piston check

 

Oh Yeah I forgot. Welcome to the board

 

Thanks, Norm. Maybe it's the same cam I run which is the MP "653" cam (.528" solid) which I think is a great cam. Some years ago after I built my engine, I built another same engine (10.5 comp 340) but we used the MP "655" cam (.55? lift) and it never ran too good below 3000 rpm. I guess it was just too much cam for the combo. I think you'll be happy once you iron out what you have, maybe put in a set of 4.30 or 4.56's.
The hardest part is the waiting!

 

I ran the numbers thru desktop dyno 2000 using that cam, figureing it's close. Interesting numbers. We'll have to see how it runs when it's all sorted out to see how close it is.