How much faster?
03-03-2005, 01:33 PM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
How much faster?
Looking for predictions. Here's what I'm doing:
- Replacing the stock drum brakes with a Wilwood lightweight disk setup.
- Replacing the stock cast-iron master cylinder with a lightweight alumunum Mopar unit.
- Replacing the stock Mopar distributor with an MSD Billet unit.
- Replacing the .048 thick head gaskets with .039 thick gaskets.
- Getting rid of the coolant leaking into the oil.
- Replacing the stock 19" 2 row radiator with a 26" alumunim radiator.
- Replacing the 60A alternator with an 80A 1-wire unit, upgrading the wire to 4ga.
I know that none of these are real performance enhancements, aside from the distributor & maybe head gaskets. But it all should lighten the car up some. How much faster do you think it'll go?
- Replacing the stock drum brakes with a Wilwood lightweight disk setup.
- Replacing the stock cast-iron master cylinder with a lightweight alumunum Mopar unit.
- Replacing the stock Mopar distributor with an MSD Billet unit.
- Replacing the .048 thick head gaskets with .039 thick gaskets.
- Getting rid of the coolant leaking into the oil.
- Replacing the stock 19" 2 row radiator with a 26" alumunim radiator.
- Replacing the 60A alternator with an 80A 1-wire unit, upgrading the wire to 4ga.
I know that none of these are real performance enhancements, aside from the distributor & maybe head gaskets. But it all should lighten the car up some. How much faster do you think it'll go?
03-03-2005, 03:42 PM
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by sickt7cuda
I'd say the changes are probably good for .1 to .15 which gets you ever so close to the 11's How about some bowl blending and chamber polishing, or did you already put the heads back on?
These heads were already ported, polished & milled, I really wasn't planning on doing anything else to them.
03-14-2005, 02:53 PM
#7
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Moonachie, NJ
Posts: 886
Originally Posted by mikelbeck
Now what if I threw a new 9.5" 3500-4000 RPM converter into the mix? The one I have now is an 11" that doesn't let me go over 2000 (footbraking) before creeping.
the rear suspension.
By the way I'm haveing the same Size and stall speed put in mine as we type
And if you hook I would now say you can p/up .2 to .35 seconds
03-14-2005, 03:25 PM
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by sickt7cuda
I'd have to agree with Tony, leaning more towards .30, if it's well tuned.
{ edit }
ATTENTION TONY. THE FOLLOWING QUESTION IS FOR YOU:
Why do you say I have to work on the suspension? I haven't had any traction problems, I put new springs in last season... ?
{ /edit }
03-14-2005, 04:01 PM
#13
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Moonachie, NJ
Posts: 886
The reason I said that is, I believe most of the et increase will
come from your 60' if you install the new convertor. I remember you saying you replaced the leaf springs,
don't remember you changing your shocks. I think you may have to go with an adjustable shock.
Going from leaving @ 2000rpm to 3500-4000 rpm is gonna be a great shock to you rear wheels/suspension. I noticed with my car leaving harder resulted in a little bounceing. Had to readjust the shocks then it was fine. Again just a thought.
come from your 60' if you install the new convertor. I remember you saying you replaced the leaf springs,
don't remember you changing your shocks. I think you may have to go with an adjustable shock. Going from leaving @ 2000rpm to 3500-4000 rpm is gonna be a great shock to you rear wheels/suspension. I noticed with my car leaving harder resulted in a little bounceing. Had to readjust the shocks then it was fine. Again just a thought.
03-14-2005, 04:08 PM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by onehellofadart
The reason I said that is, I believe most of the et increase will
come from your 60' if you install the new convertor. I remember you saying you replaced the leaf springs, don't remember you changing your shocks. I think you may have to go with an adjustable shock.
Going from leaving @ 2000rpm to 3500-4000 rpm is gonna be a great shock to you rear wheels/suspension. I noticed with my car leaving harder resulted in a little bounceing. Had to readjust the shocks then it was fine. Again just a thought.
come from your 60' if you install the new convertor. I remember you saying you replaced the leaf springs,
don't remember you changing your shocks. I think you may have to go with an adjustable shock. Going from leaving @ 2000rpm to 3500-4000 rpm is gonna be a great shock to you rear wheels/suspension. I noticed with my car leaving harder resulted in a little bounceing. Had to readjust the shocks then it was fine. Again just a thought.
03-14-2005, 04:14 PM
#15
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Moonachie, NJ
Posts: 886
Originally Posted by mikelbeck
Originally Posted by onehellofadart
The reason I said that is, I believe most of the et increase will
come from your 60' if you install the new convertor. I remember you saying you replaced the leaf springs, don't remember you changing your shocks. I think you may have to go with an adjustable shock.
Going from leaving @ 2000rpm to 3500-4000 rpm is gonna be a great shock to you rear wheels/suspension. I noticed with my car leaving harder resulted in a little bounceing. Had to readjust the shocks then it was fine. Again just a thought.
come from your 60' if you install the new convertor. I remember you saying you replaced the leaf springs,
don't remember you changing your shocks. I think you may have to go with an adjustable shock. Going from leaving @ 2000rpm to 3500-4000 rpm is gonna be a great shock to you rear wheels/suspension. I noticed with my car leaving harder resulted in a little bounceing. Had to readjust the shocks then it was fine. Again just a thought.
Never mind then
03-14-2005, 04:18 PM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by onehellofadart
Originally Posted by mikelbeck
Originally Posted by onehellofadart
The reason I said that is, I believe most of the et increase will
come from your 60' if you install the new convertor. I remember you saying you replaced the leaf springs, don't remember you changing your shocks. I think you may have to go with an adjustable shock.
Going from leaving @ 2000rpm to 3500-4000 rpm is gonna be a great shock to you rear wheels/suspension. I noticed with my car leaving harder resulted in a little bounceing. Had to readjust the shocks then it was fine. Again just a thought.
come from your 60' if you install the new convertor. I remember you saying you replaced the leaf springs,
don't remember you changing your shocks. I think you may have to go with an adjustable shock. Going from leaving @ 2000rpm to 3500-4000 rpm is gonna be a great shock to you rear wheels/suspension. I noticed with my car leaving harder resulted in a little bounceing. Had to readjust the shocks then it was fine. Again just a thought.
Never mind thenI guess I'll have to wait to get it out to the track to see if I have any traction issues. With my luck, I'll twist one of the tubes off the rear on my first pass.
I'd be happy with a 3 tenth improvement, though.
03-14-2005, 09:13 PM
#19
Administrator
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Hopewell Jct., NY
Posts: 501
Originally Posted by mikelbeck
Originally Posted by onehellofadart
Originally Posted by mikelbeck
Originally Posted by onehellofadart
The reason I said that is, I believe most of the et increase will
come from your 60' if you install the new convertor. I remember you saying you replaced the leaf springs, don't remember you changing your shocks. I think you may have to go with an adjustable shock.
Going from leaving @ 2000rpm to 3500-4000 rpm is gonna be a great shock to you rear wheels/suspension. I noticed with my car leaving harder resulted in a little bounceing. Had to readjust the shocks then it was fine. Again just a thought.
come from your 60' if you install the new convertor. I remember you saying you replaced the leaf springs,
don't remember you changing your shocks. I think you may have to go with an adjustable shock. Going from leaving @ 2000rpm to 3500-4000 rpm is gonna be a great shock to you rear wheels/suspension. I noticed with my car leaving harder resulted in a little bounceing. Had to readjust the shocks then it was fine. Again just a thought.
Never mind thenHa! You used the new smilie! You get 1 point for that.
I guess I'll have to wait to get it out to the track to see if I have any traction issues. With my luck, I'll twist one of the tubes off the rear on my first pass.
I'd be happy with a 3 tenth improvement, though.
Just don't do this.
03-15-2005, 08:06 PM
#23
Administrator
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Hopewell Jct., NY
Posts: 501
I think those were resplined.
This is why I have a problem with certian parts like resplined axles and wheel adapters/spacers. I've been there done that and I know they won't hold up, at least not for me.
This is why I have a problem with certian parts like resplined axles and wheel adapters/spacers. I've been there done that and I know they won't hold up, at least not for me.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
launch
Cylinder Head Tech - Hosted by Racing Flow Development
1
07-17-2005 11:36 AM
cboggs
Cylinder Head Tech - Hosted by Racing Flow Development
2
05-16-2005 06:44 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)